1927 Reproduction Red Koi
Using reprint of a c.1927 dress to be worn at a 1930s Murder Mystery ball and possibly a
future Art Deco ball. Red polyester cosplay print from Joann Fabrics with red synthetic lining.
Completed: February 2019
Items constructed for this costume:
Dress
YaYa Han Red Koi printed polyester "chiffon" evening dress with left side zipper, lining, V neckline, cap sleeves with long sheer, skirt yolk, center back skirt pleat, self fabric sash.
2007 Pattern: Simplicity 3619. 80th Anniversary pattern "Misses' evening gown with sleeve variation."
Note that seam allowances are a mix of 3/8" and 5/8" so read instructions or pattern pieces.
Bodice and waist width size 18 and shoulder height size 14?. Hip size 20. Sleeve cuff size 12.
Shorten lining hem by 2”. Shorten dress hem by 1”.
French seam as much of the sheer as can and for other seams stitched close to
first stitch line, zizagged, and trimmed.
Gathered sleeve between notches to ease out fullness.
Basted lining and sheer together so zip will end up on the inside of the dress.
Zipper under left arm
[20190203] So, I danced more than my recent usual 1 or 2 dances at PEERS including, at least, three with good leads and felt that the dress did really well as a ballroom gown. The synthetic lining rustled and the full skirt flowed.
The red koi pattern ends up very difficult to see. Not sure if a white or black lining would have helped or if the cut of the dress obscures patterns. It, also, doesn't photograph the way I feel in it. So, maybe a different fabric choice would be better.
The fabric was difficult. Since it was printed instead of color saturated throughout, there are white streaks in places which looks like either the threads were pulled or twisted so that the unprinted back of the thread shows. See the white streaks near the curve.
I ended up taking up the shoulder seams another 3/8" making the pattern height either a size 14 or size 12, bust/width size 18 and hips size 20. Might have been better at bust 16, waist 18, hips 20. Used safety pins on shoulder seams to keep the dress shoulders from sliding off bra straps.
...
[20190202] Sewed second bodice. Fabric is still kind of funky, when threads are pulled, it shows as white on the front since the pattern is just printed on front and the dye doesn't go all the way through. Moved shoulders up 3/8" more. Had to gather sleeve between notches to ease out fullness. Basted lining and sheer together for zipper opening.
[
20190128] Found flaw in fabric after sewing the bodice together. May need to cut
out and resew bodice. The fabric is so sheer that the interfacing shows through so more
lining fabrics to cover the interfacing pieces will be needed.
Completed: February 2019